‘When it is my time to reincarnate one day I want to be a RAT!’ The man’s eyes are large and locked on mine. I have no doubts that he means every word.
‘This place is SO SO sacred!’ He trails on. ‘When the plague was devastating this whole region in the Olden Times, the temple was spared. Sick people would actually come here to heal and get better’.
I do my best not to roll my eyes. Instead I nod in agreement and try not to look around as we are surrounded by hundreds of filthy rats.
We are in the courtyard of the Karni Mata Temple in Bikaner. In this temple the rats (kabas) are considered sacred and are given protection to multiple and thrive in peace. According to a legend, Karni Mata, a 14th century reincarnation of Durga, asked the God of Death Yama to restore life to her drowned son Lakhan. When Yama refused Karni Mata decided that all her family would be reincarnated as kabas and they will return as members of her family.
Many of the rats are just piled up in lazy heaps or hang out on the railings sprawled as rugs left to dry in the heat. I am surprised to find a few scurrying around and across my feet. Yuks!
The temple is as dirty as it is holy.
This must be the first place that leaves me with a culture shock hard to stomach. Next to my foot I spot a big rat chewing its baby and I am ready to loose it. Me and Molly, a new British friend, stick together with ashen expressions on our faces. It is Sunday and the place is packed. All around us are devotees clutching little packages of feed for the mass of holy rodents, who are drunk on dirty water served in large bowls. The crowds are pushing us towards the sanctuary but we are singled out and denied entry as the heart of the temple is reserved for true Hindu only. We are back in the hot ratty courtyard.
It is auspicious to spot the only white rat of the temple. It is believed that this will bring years of good luck. God knows I need that! We see a group of people piled up in the far corner and head this way. I am pushed to the front where I spot the albino among his dirty brown buddies !Check! I think to myself as I make my way out of the temple. The old man keeps following us with his perfect British English: ‘I was a teacher, you know, for many years. I brought students here all the time…’
We slowly loose him and disappear in the heat of the day. After an hour I have the feeling I have dreamed the whole thing up – the rats, the filth, the crowds of devotees, even the cute little white rat – my assurance of years of good luck.
~M.
Have you ever been shocked by something so culturally foreign that no matter how open minded you try to be, it is still hard to stomach?
Hmm it looks like your blog ate my first comment (it
was super long) so I guess I’ll just sum it up what I had written and say, I’m thoroughly
enjoying your blog. I as well am an aspiring blog writer but I’m still new to everything.
Do you have any points for novice blog writers? I’d definitely appreciate it.
Hi! Thanks for reading and connecting! I myself am a novice writer, just started the blog to keep up with friends and family a few months ago. Do I have any advice? Yes. Keep it simple and be yourself:)